Friday, May 29, 2015

Switzerland in the rain...

In my two weeks here, Switzerland has reminded me a little of New Zealand, Vancouver, and Nepal—for its stunning mountains, its cheerful, helpful people, and its beauty even in the rain. The mostly rainy first days made me really appreciate the sunny ones later. Although even in the rain, it's beautiful here in spring with all the birds and spring flowers.

Alpenblumen

I was lucky to spend my first days in Switzerland with a Swiss mountain climber named Ulrike in Bern, and lucky again when she took me to hike up the Niesen Mountain together. On my first full day in Switzerland, we walked up about 1,700 metres to 2,362 metres in clear weather to be rewarded with a panoramic view of the surrounding mountains and lakes from the top. I enjoyed Ulrike's company hiking and cooking together and really appreciated her sharing her space in her small flat with me for two days.

Walking with Ulrike
Views from top of Niesen


After staying with Ulrike, I was welcomed by a Servas family with two kids who lives directly across the lake from the Niesen Mountain (that Ulrike and I climbed) in a small town called Oberhofen. It was nice seeing the mountain from a distance from their kitchen table whenever it poked out from the rainy weather we had. The family was so welcoming and gave me directions one day to do a nice hike in the rain to the incredible St. Beatus Caves, a network of caves filled with streams and waterfalls, which go more than 14 km into the Niederhorrn Mountain, one km of which visitors can explore. It was lovely getting to know the Többens and learning more Swiss history from them.

The Niesen from the Többens' porch
Exploring St. Beatus Caves

From the Többen family, I headed to another family's place in a small village called Buttisholz. The Müllers were so open and friendly, treating me like family. We spent time walking together one day and preparing for company for one of the two nights. They had two other couples over for dinner and I enjoyed being there so much, even the times when the conversation switched into Swiss German and I couldn't understand everything. When I left by train, the father dropped me off, helped me buy the ticket so I'd get his work discount, and then when I thought he'd already left, I looked out the train window as it was pulling away and saw him standing on the platform with a huge smile and wave. It was one of those travel moments that make the heart smile.

Getting ready for company
Livia and Simon

After so many nice visits, it was good to be on my way to the mountains for some solo hiking in the area around Lauterbrunnen. The first days were either rainy or cloudy, but whenever the clouds parted, the views of the towering mountains and dozens of waterfalls, big and small, were incredible. The crisp mountain air, singing birds, and rainbow of spring mountain flowers made for five and half refreshing days, thinking, meditating, and reflecting while walking.

Then in my last days, the clouds cleared and the sun came out, opening up stunning views of the surrounding mountains. I was also lucky for my last day when a local biologist, a 34-year old woman named Zuzi, invited me to come along for some field work tracking birds with her. We had a great day hiking together and it was fun learning about the local birds and flowers from her.

Lauterbrunnen Valley
Views big and small
Young ibex
Ibex fawns
Jungfrau
Joining Zuzi for bird tracking
Mountains Mönch and Jungfrau

My last stop in Switzerland is here outside Zurich, where I'm staying with a friendly Servas couple in their flat before heading to Italy. Last night they had a fun family over for a bbq and I got to play with their energetic little ones outside for a few hours after dinner.

Noellia and Tristan

The hardest part about travel in Switzerland is the cost. However, while it's the most pricey country I've ever been, the quality of life here also seems very high. I'm very grateful to the families who hosted me here, making staying in Switzerland for two weeks possible.

I'll be leaving Switzerland refreshed from the cool mountain air, but also warmed by the friendliness of my Swiss hosts.

Mountain Cornflower

Alpine Toadflax

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