Kop chai lai lai

I had to learn how to say, "Thank you very much" in Lao quickly. There were so many people and also events to be thankful for. In Laos, I also felt deep peacefulness and encountered more than the usual dose of travellers' serendipity.

Laos is a landlocked country bordered by Thailand, Burma (Myanmar), Vietnam, and China and is primarily Buddhist with animist beliefs also prevalent, especially among the hill tribes. I found Lao people to be friendly, patient, and gentle, traits likely encouraged by Buddhism. At the same time, Laotians are good at having fun, as I found out during the journey. It is also a very affordable country to travel in with guesthouses available for $3-15 per night, a delicious local meal for $1-2, a daylong bike rental for $1.25, and an hour massage for as little as $4.

Pha That Luang - national emblem of Laos

Just before coming to Laos, two books serendipitously popped into my hands (traded for with my old books at a guesthouse and used bookstore)—one called simply, Buddha by Deepak Chopra about the life of Buddha and another called, Borderlines, written by an Englishman travelling in Thailand, Burma, and a bit of Laos in the '80s. The first I read just before coming and learning the full Buddha story was the perfect prelude to entering Laos. And Borderlines I read during my journey. As I read, the authour delved into the Golden Triangle (the northern part of Thailand, Burma, and Laos known for its prolific growing of opium) and visited a hill tribe at the same times I did. He even visited a tribe from the same ethnic background (Akha) out of the many that live in the region.

But I'll start with Vientiane, Laos' capital and my port of entry. Even Laos' capital city is pleasantly peaceful. The day I arrived, I quickly realized something was missing: the sound of car horns that's as constant as cicadas in most Southeast Asian cities. Laotians use car horns like I imagine Japanese people would—sparingly and out of necessity. In Vientiane, three highlights for me were meditating with monks, spontaneously joining a free aerobics group along the Mekong River one evening, and visiting a centre for victims of unexploded bombs left in the countryside.

The first happened at a lovely temple compound called Wat Sok Pa Luang, where every Saturday at 4pm young monks offer a free one-hour meditation practice for locals and travellers alike. I got there an hour early, serendipitously in time to join in the English practice portion I hadn't hear about. Before meditating, English speakers can come and help the monks practice their English. Then the monks led us in 20 minutes of sitting meditation, followed by 20 minutes of walking meditation, and another 20 minutes sitting. Afterwards, they held a Q&A session and gave us a booklet about attentiveness. The timing was perfect, giving me something I could practice during my Lao journey. And helpful it would turn out to be.

Joining in for aerobics on the Mekong

Joining the free aerobics on the river needs little explanation other than that I thought it was so cool that people get together in the evenings to exercise together and I had fun joining in. But the COPE centre experience deserves a bit of extra details. COPE stands for Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise and is a locally-run, non-profit organization founded in 1997 to aid survivors of unexploded ordnance (UXO) and inform people about the dangers of cluster bombs used in wars worldwide. Unknown to me prior, Laos is the most heavily bombed country in history. During the Vietnam War, American forces dropped excess bombs from Vietnam raids to avoid landing with explosives on board. Laos was also seen as a potential "domino" in the spread of communism. It's estimated 90% of the victims were innocent civilians. However, the bombing of Laos was a secret war; the American people would not become aware of it until five years after bombing began and would last another four years after that.

Today, the consequences in Laos are still serious with unexploded "bombies" left across the countryside, including in farmers' fields and villages where when struck they still kill, maim, or blind civilians. The COPE centre serves to raise funds, aid victims, and provide info that will hopefully discourage the use of these weapons in the future. One of the most powerful symbols of the peacefulness of the Lao people for me was a display of all the creative ways people in the countryside have found to use the bomb material—recycled metal shaped into spoons, defused "bombies" turned into candle holders, empty bombshells used as herb planters, and huge bombshells used as the poles for the very base of their homes. I felt near tears when I saw how the Lao people have transformed violent weapons from a war they were not directly involved in, into peaceful, everyday objects.

From Vientiane, I took a 12-hour night bus south to the Bolaven Plateau—a region known for its dramatic waterfalls and excellent coffee and tea, which were first successfully planted during French colonization of Laos. I experienced both—the waterfalls and coffee/tea—along with a group of lovely German and Swiss girls on a self-organized tour with a tuk-tuk driver we hired. The air was refreshing after hotter lowland Laos and the coffee and tea strong and delicious.

Tad Fan Waterfall

But in Pakse, I also got a chance to practice the Buddhist "attentiveness" taught by the monks in Vientiane. I realized my Canadian passport was gone one night around 10pm. First I searched every pocket of my bags two or three times and then retraced every step of my passport in my mind. I remembered that that night in the dark, rainy weather, I'd opened my passport pouch to get money a few times and realized it may have fell out at one of those times. All the while, I realized I was paying attention to my emotions and reactions, realizing the ramifications, including possibly ending my trip in Laos, but staying surprisingly calm. Around midnight, I resigned myself to sleep and a continued search in the morning. I witnessed myself say a little prayer and handing the situation over to God, and slept surprisingly well. The next morning, I decided to call the hotel in Vientiane where I was sure I had NOT left it. But to my overwhelming relief they said they had it (and would hold it for me) and I was able to continue with my plans of taking the bus I'd booked for that morning at 7am. I believe the timing of the Buddhist meditation lessons and also the prayer saved me from panic and a sleepless night, and helped me stay calm enough to find the solution.

In the south, I also visited Wat Phou, a ruined Khmer temple complex from the same era as Angkor Wat and bicycled around the peaceful countryside along the Mekong River where people were extremely friendly and the scenery beautiful.

Part of the Wat Phou complex

View from Wat Phou

After the south, I made a two-day journey to the north of Laos, starting in Luang Namtha where I met a friendly Japanese backpacker named Akira and he and I signed up with an energetic Lao guide named Sueb to take us on a two-day jungle trek with an overnight stay in an Akha village. The trek included many river/stream crossings and some dense jungle parts, but the scenery was beautiful and more appreciated I think because of trying to remain present as taught in the meditation practice. It was special to experience life in the small Akha village perched in the hills, surrounded by dramatic scenery. The way of life remains traditional and the people included us in their evening festivities.

Jungle picnic

View approaching the Akha village

Coming into the village

Breakfast by Sueb

A dense part

From Luang Namtha, I made my way into the famous Golden Triangle, the northern part of Thailand, Burma, and Laos known for its prolific opium production. I didn't witness too much evidence of opium other than being offered to buy some once. It was this part of Laos, particularly Muang Long where I was the only tourist in town, that was probably my favourite since I received the most invitations to join in on events. The first ironically was the grand opening of a new tourist office in town, celebrated by the employees with lawn games and lots of Beer Lao. Another special event was a Sukhwan ceremony, where guests tie strings around the wrists of the person of honour, in this case a young man bound for university, while wishing them blessings. After we tied strings and wished him the best, we were served lovely foods and copious amounts of Lao-Lao (rice whiskey) while seated on the floor, passing the Lao-Lao cup from person to person in the common SE Asian way. I received many other invitations like teaching an impromptu English class and joining groups of people eating or drinking and was so grateful for the opportunities to visit with Lao people.

Muang Long from above

Morning walk in Muang Long

From Muang Long, I headed back south to Luang Prabang, a world heritage town and a place with rich Buddhist tradition. Each morning if you're out early, you'll see young, saffron-robed monks receiving their daily alms (rice and other foods) from the community along the roads. And when I heard the colourful, lively festival of lighted boats (Lai Heau Fai) would be held while I was in Laos and is most colourfully celebrated in Luang Prabang, I made sure to be there for the festival days. Lai Heau Fai is held at the end of "Buddhist Lent," and the festival is at its peak on the night of the full moon in October when every town in the district creates a huge boat and decorates it uniquely, topped with candles. The boats are paraded on wheels down the main road at night and then one-by-one carried down a long staircase by about eight men each and put into the Mekong River. People also make and buy small floating vessels called krathong, made from natural materials like banana leaves and flowers, and light them with incense and candles before floating them down the river. Letting the boats and krathong down the river symbolizes giving thanks to river and a flowing away of any bad luck. It was fun to be caught up in the crowds and excitement, and to see the contrast and coexistence of the peaceful, silent parts of Buddhism and then the noisy chaotic festival. During the parade, many of the towns towed wheeled coolers of beer along with their boats and sang, played music, and danced along the way.

Getting ready for Lai Heau Fai

Krathong for sale

Parade prep

Dragon-shaped boat on parade

Bringing a boat down to the river

Into the Mekong

On a daily basis in Laos two things I could never get tired of are the morning (and night) markets and bicycling in the countryside. I found infinite joy in exploring the markets of each town, buying fresh fruit, people watching, trying new foods, and trying to learn some Lao with stall owners. The food in Laos is some of the cheapest, most delicious, and healthiest I've ever had, and in my opinion, is at its best in the markets. Likewise, bicycling was a cheap, fun, and beautiful way to explore Laos at a relaxed pace.

Morning market in Muang Sing

Countryside bicycling in Champasak

Other than the lost passport incident and a few too-friendly men along the way, my time in Laos was enlightening, peaceful, and fun. I've left Laos with a deep feeling of peace and gratefulness. Kop chai lai lai Laos and to every beautiful soul I encountered there.